German mountain pack Gen 2

When I saw this old style cotton canvas ruck sack I was taken back in time, quite a way back in fact.

I bought something very similar to this when I first started out on my hillwalking adventures.

It would get filled, usually overfilled, with things to sleep in and under.

Something to cook on and something to cook.

Whatever didn't fit in it was tied to it.

My old mate Kevin Endicott turned up at the farm last week with a boot full of equipment for me to photograph.

Most of the equipment I photographed has now been sold on.

However, Kevin still has a bundle or two of these useful packs from back when.

Kevin Endicott also has a more modern nylon variant.

Have a look at his web site at

Canvas backpack

Nylon backpack

A super ruck for the outdoor enthusiast.

ENDY Stats: 

Capacity: Approx 35Lts. Gross. 

Dimensions: 

Height; 16" / 40cm 

Width; 14" / 36cm - max.

Depth; 6" /  15cm approx.

Material: Canvas. Cotton. Bound seams

Weight: 2lb 6oz / 1,075gms - typically

Hand carved spoons, kolrosing and chip carving.

I've been experimenting with some new spoon carving designs.

A touch of chip carving alongside simple tattooing.

It's quite amazing what can be achieved by the simple application of the tip of your knife.

Plus a little dry ground coffee.

Once again, I used a compass to mark out my design.

Then painstakingly added the depressions with the tip of my MiniMac carving knife.

Some of the spoons here are left plain as the natural markings are quite enough.

 I've been using my most recent MaChris for quite some time now.

The MaChris bushcraft/carver Chris made for me in 14C28N  has proved to be almost as resiliant as the 52100 bearing steel that is used in our standard MaChris knife range.

There is not much between the two.

I like the idea of a rust proof bushcraft/carver, especially when one lives in a wet and damp environment like Dartmoor.

Visit

Makemethischris.

Find me on Instagram.

jonmacspooncarver

Enjoy.

Re Profiled Gransfors Bruk.

Last summer, my good friend and associate Chris Grant came to stay with Sarah and I in our little home on Dartmoor.

As you may know, Chris is a Bladesmith, an old hand, who produces my MaChris line of carving and bushcraft knives.

As I have probably mentioned before, Chris has a super web site showcasing his knife making skills.

You can find it here at 

Makemethischris

Chris Grant near Start point, Devon.

As ever, we spent a lot of time chatting about knives, steel and Axes.

Chris has a knowledge of steel that will make ones mind boggle.

I mentioned to Chris that my Gransfors Bruk carving axe had a few design issues.

He had a look at the axe and decided to take it home to Scotland for a visit to his workshop.

L:standard-R:re profiled

The main issue for me lies beneath the beard of the axe.
A cunningly designed pinch point for my, ok, rather big fingers.

L:standard R:re profiled

Above, on the left is a standard G.B carver and on the right is the re-profiled carver.

You can just make out the easing of the tight pinch point in the beard.

Polished underside of the re ground beard.

 As well as easing the pinch point, Chris re-profiled the cutting edge, drawing the bevel out further toward the eye.

This re-profiling has given the axe a much better bite.
When sharpened one can feel an improvement in it's cutting ability.

It's now faster and more accurate, it slices further through the cut and is all together a much improved axe.

I have used the G.B extensively now for cutting spoon blanks and roughing out a wooden model of a cooking knife Chris and I are working on.
This is pretty well how all our knives start.

We will have a chat over the phone and when the time is right a model is made.
I then send it up to Chris and he performs his majik.
Tweaking a bit here and there until we are both satisfied we are heading in the right direction.
Once a top quality steel has been chosen that is suitable for the job in hand Chris will make a working prototype which is sent back to me for evaluation.
Now the flu I mentioned in my last post has gone, I can get back to working on our designs.
I'm having some folks stay here for a spot of camping and carving over the easter break, I'll put some of our knives in their hands for some useful feedback.



In the meantime I have been playing with kolrossing designs for my spoons.
You'll find a tutorial in my previous post.

I like how this one turned out, it's a bit shabby here and there, but I learned a lot for the next one.

Enjoy.... J

Kolrossing pattern for your hand carved spoon.

 I've shied away from the Sami patterns that are quite common on Scandinavian/Nordic type spoons.

However, today I  succumbed -  due in part I think to a curiosity about setting up the repeating pattern.

I've seen a lot of this type of design, I took a look around the web today and could find no information as to how to set the whole thing up.

The reason for the lack of information is undoubtedly down to looking in the wrong place.

Doh !

So, here is my own tutorial on how one might go about setting the pattern up.

It's snowing out, the flu or whatever it is is making a comeback, so I've lit the fire and I'm working in the warm today.

Apart from a wooden spoon, you'll need a super sharp knife, pencil, rule, fine Abrenet (optional) and some dry, finely ground coffee.

Not a bad tool list...

I selected a spoon that I've carved for a friend who is embarking on a cycle tour across Europe, commencing in the spring.

All I need to do now is carve one for his lovely wife.

Can't have arguments on the adventure eh ?

Have a practice first on a clear sheet of paper then

with your rule and pencil, make feint cross hatchings on the spoon.

Then, with a heavier line, mark out the patten.

I have highlighted the basic repeat in blue.

I hope this makes sense.

Once finished, check the work to make sure there are no errors.

Once you are happy with your design, carefully cut along the heavier pencil lines.

Just one slice, not too deep.

Once you are happy with your work so far and have been over the complete design, use the tip of your knife to make the Maltese cross shape.

Simply poke in and remove.

Or sharpen a fine nail to make a dot.

Finally, rub some coffee grounds into the design with clean dry fingers.

Wet or oily fingers will cause the fine cuts to close up.

Clean the spoon with a clean cloth.

Lightly sand with super fine Abrenet

 to remove any raised fibres.

And oil.

I'm going to ask Sarah to proof read this whilst I nip into the kitchen and make a 

HOT TODDY.

Lemon. 

Cinamon.

Honey.

Cognac.

Enjoy.... J.